Fabric is undoubtedly the most important part of a suit. It is also the first thing to consider when choosing a suit. It can determine the grade of the suit most directly. If the fabric is insufficient, even if there is a good craft, more manuals, the suit can not be advanced. . Now let's take a look at the classification and selection of fabrics.
Although there are many factors in the quality of the materials used, it is now decided that the price of fabrics mainly lies in the place of origin. The prices of domestic and imported fabrics vary greatly. Imported fabrics are mainly concentrated in Italy and the United Kingdom. The world's top suit fabrics such as: DORMEUIL, Scabal, HOLLAND & SHERRY, CHARLES CLAYTON, these four are British long-established and high-quality wool manufacturers; Ermenegildo Zegna, LORO PIANA, VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO, REDA, CERRUTI1881, these are Italian wool The giant is also the benchmark for wool quality.
The high-end shirt fabric brands are British THOMAS MASON, Swiss Alumo, Italian MONTI, LEGGIUNO, FERNO and so on. A custom shop with several types of suits and shirts is basically a very professional custom shop. Usually these famous factories have strict requirements on the professional level of the custom shop, and only when they reach the corresponding level will they authorize the use of their own fabrics and trademarks.
Wool fabric refers to a fabric made of wool or wool and polyester, viscose, acrylic, etc. The worsted wool is mainly pure sheep wool. It can also be mixed with a certain proportion of wool-type chemical fiber or other natural fiber. It is processed by combing equipment and combed, combined, drawn, spun, weaved, High-grade clothing fabric made by dyeing and finishing.
It has the unique elasticity, softness, unique fluffing and wrinkle resistance unique to animal hair, and it is also warm when it absorbs moisture or sweat. The garment made of worsted wool fabric has strong durability and wear resistance. It is not deformed for a long time. It is extraordinarily solemn due to the lack of aurora. The texture is smooth, the appearance is elegant, the style is crisp, the touch is full, the style is classic, the luster is natural and soft. It is the preferred fabric for high-end professional wear.
The so-called worsted and woollen, to be explained from two angles, one is the fiber above, the other is the weave, the general worsted fiber above the fiber is 32 and 40, the higher the count, the smoother the fiber, the joint Also, the natural density is high, the wear resistance is good, the comfort is good; the other is the weaving, worsted fabric used in the weaving process of the fine textile method to prevent fiber breakage, high density, woolen fabric joints More, easy to break, natural wear resistance check, poor density.
Pure wool worsted fabrics are mostly thin in texture, smooth in surface and clear in texture. Guanze is naturally soft and has a drift. The body is crisp, soft and flexible. After loosening the material, it is loosened, basically free of wrinkles, and even if there is a slight crease, it can disappear in a short time.
Identification of pure wool fabric
The pure wool fabric is soft and natural, and has a good warmth effect. It is the fabric of choice for making high-end suits and coats. But now there are more and more wool-like fabrics. With the improvement of textile technology, it has reached the level that most customers can hardly identify, but the color, warmth, and feel are far less than pure wool fabrics. Here are a few ways to identify pure wool fabrics for your reference when choosing clothing and fabrics.
Touch feeling
Pure wool fabrics are usually smooth and smooth, and the long-haired fabrics are smooth and smooth, and have a tingling sensation on the hair.
2. Look at the color
The color of the pure wool fabric is natural and soft, bright and without old feeling.
3. Look at the elasticity
Tighten the object by hand and then let go immediately to see the fabric elasticity. The pure wool fabric has a high rebound rate and can be quickly restored to its original state.
4. Identification by combustion method
Take a bunch of yarn and burn it with fire. The smell of pure wool fiber is like burning hair. The smell of chemical fiber fabric is like burning plastic. The harder the particles after burning, the more chemical fiber components are present.
5. Single root identification
The hair of all animals is scaly under the microscope. If it is a long-wool fabric, it will move up or down as long as it takes a few shots.
Wool is generally referred to as wool fabric. Wool fiber is a coalescence of protein molecules. It has a unique tight horny scale structure on the outside. It is tightly covered. This sheet-like structure is very small. It has the advantage of preventing dirt from penetrating into the fiber and not easily staining.
The reason why the wool produces light
1. The horny scale layer of the wool fiber surface is partially worn;
2. Dust and dirt are lightly rubbed and adhered to the weaving groove, so that the surface of the fabric is slippery, causing the light to be regularly refracted and bright.
Method of removing light
1. Put the bread into powder and spread it in the light, and iron it with an iron;
2. Pickling: Soak for 3-5 minutes with a 3-5 g of glacial acetic acid solution at a temperature of 50 ° C, then rinse with water and white vinegar.
3. Use a brush when washing.
Wool-blend fabric, that is, fabric made of cashmere, polyester, spandex, rabbit hair and other fibers mixed with wool. Wool and polyester blended fabric, under the sun, the surface has a flash point, the fabric is stiff and has a good elasticity. It is loosened after gripping the fabric and has almost no wrinkles.
The gloss is dim. The worsted type feels weaker, while the woollen type feels loose. The elasticity and firmness of these fabrics are not as good as pure wool and wool polyester, wool and fine blended and purified wool-like wool fabrics. The wool-like fabrics made of viscose and artificial wool fibers are traditionally made of dull, soft and weak.
The strength of the yarn drawn from the fabric after wet water is significantly lower than that in the dry state, which is an effective method for identifying viscose-based fabrics. In addition, such wool-like fabrics become hard and thick after being wetted. With the advancement of science and technology, the wool-like products have also improved in terms of color, feel and durability.
Generally, synthetic fibers are used as main materials, artificial fibers or colored yarns are used as auxiliary lines, and some synthetic synthetic fibers are used as main materials, and appropriate fabric structures are used. These fabrics have two kinds of bamboo-like shapes and are natural in style. It has the natural style of natural fibers. The color of the cloth is bright, the degree of Guanze is good, it is crisp and flexible, and it is suitable for the public.
Chemical fiber hair, the common feature of clothing is lighter. Recently, the international market is a blend of acrylic and nylon-like rabbit fur yarns, and denatured acrylic-like mohair yarns, which can be compared with natural rabbit fur and mohair clothing.
Differentiating chemical fiber wool and pure wool fabric
Different gloss
Pure wool fabrics are mostly soft and natural, with less colorful colors, and chemical fiber-like wool fabrics, rich in color and brightness.
2. Different feel and elasticity
Pure wool fabric feels soft, slightly plush, with body bones, slightly wrinkled and not hard, rebound soft and not straight.
3. After spinning, burn
After being burned, the pure wool fabric is slowly burned after the fire, accompanied by the smell of burning hair. The black crunchy blocky ash is more, and the powder is ready to be smashed. The near fire is burning, the burning is rapid, the flame is yellow, and the ash is in the middle. There is white light ash that is easy to fly, and a piece of hard piece that is not easy to be crushed is polyester/sticky.
The British first studied the extraction of proteins from animal glue to make artificial protein fibers. In 1935, some people in Italy experimented with extracting cheese from milk to make artificial wool. Since then, some countries have succeeded in making man-made fibers from soy protein and peanut protein. Man-made fibers are divided into two types: regenerated fiber and chemical fiber. Regenerated fiber is made of viscose fiber made of wood and grass fiber. Chemical fiber is made of petroleum, natural gas, coal and agricultural by-products. synthetic fiber. According to the shape and use of rayon, it is divided into rayon, rayon and artificial wool.
Synthetic fabrics basically refer to viscose filaments and staple fabrics, known as rayon, rayon, and the like. In addition, it also contains a partially rich fabric and a medium-length fabric interwoven between filaments and staple fibers. Therefore, the performance of human fiber fabrics is mainly determined by the characteristics of viscose fibers.
The mercerized wool is chemically treated and physically treated to break the scales of the wool fibers and pass the chemical reagents to make the wool smooth, shiny and shrink-proof during washing. It is suitable for wedding dresses. Mercerized wool is a mercerizing process in which wool is processed through textile dyeing and finishing processes. Mercerized wool, either pure wool or blended. The main features are anti-shrinkage, machine washable, and anti-pilling.
The mercerized wool process originated in the mid-1990s and is a new dyeing and finishing process developed on the basis of the traditional wool chlorination shrinkage prevention process. It has a cashmere-like feel and silky luster.
Cotton fiber is a natural fiber, which is derived from the seeds of plants. The stems and leaves have many excellent qualities that are not possessed by chemical fibers. There are more hydrophilic genes in cotton fibers, which are hygroscopic, sweat-absorbent, breathable and comfortable. And hemp fiber is also cool, stiff, and does not touch the body.
Note: The washing temperature should not be too high, avoid rubbing and twisting with force to avoid sun exposure. Ironing points: wet ironing, ironing the fabric from the reverse side. Disadvantages: not resistant to alkali, shrinkage, and wrinkle.
Fabrics made from wool and polyester blended yarns are the most common of the current blended wool fabrics. A fabric made from wool and polyester blended yarn. The usual ratio of wool-polyester blend is 45:55, which not only maintains the advantages of wool, but also the advantages of polyester.
Compared with the whole hair tweed, the thin polyester tweed has a light texture, good wrinkle recovery, firm wear resistance, easy to wash, quick drying, long pleats and stable size, but the hand feels less smooth than the whole hair. Advantages: wool and polyester blended, light texture, good wrinkle recovery performance. Sturdy and wear-resistant, easy to wash and dry, stable size and long pleats.
Washing points: first soak in cold water for 15 minutes, then wash with general synthetic detergent, the temperature of the washing liquid should not exceed 45 degrees Celsius, after cleaning, can be lightly twisted, placed in a cool and ventilated place to dry, not exposed to the sun, should not be dried.
Although the haute couture suit is a one-person version, the classic is never out of date. A set of high-grade fabric tailored suits for the wearer is not only an improvement in temperament, but also a taste, self-confidence, self-cultivation and self-discipline. The preciousness of high-end custom suits lies in the inheritance and persistence of traditional crafts. The fabric and workmanship of the clothes can never be achieved by the assembly line. It takes time to cost, and we need to use our heart to taste and use a needle to sew.
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